Okay so there’s a reason I never intentionally set deadlines for these posts – why I ever said that part two would be published the week after part one, I just don’t know. I deeply apologise for my tardiness in getting part two posted, but here we are one month on…
Last time we explored the anatomy beneath us as we ride and how this can be directly and indirectly affected by the saddle. In this post we focus on how a saddle should fit correctly and how this has an enormous impact on our horses' physiology, locomotion and welfare, plus our riding experience. A well-fitting saddle distributes the rider's weight evenly, promoting a better riding position and allowing the horse freedom of movement to achieve their full potential. However, horses' bodies can change shape dramatically, and it is a fact universally acknowledged by any rider, owner or groom that a summer out at grass will leave even the most formidable of equine athletes resembling a mare in foal. Maintaining a correct fit is therefore synonymous with maintaining a healthy horse.
Quick note: I am not going to get into a debate about treed saddles versus treeless saddles in this blog - personally, I feel that both have their place - and since the vast majority of us will ride in a treed saddle I shall be concentrating on them for the purposes of this discussion.
The Tree
The tree is the literal backbone of most saddles and it absolutely MUST fit the horse. Saddle fit guru Jochen Schleese describes it as “… an interface between the vertical spine of the rider and the horizontal spine of the horse – protecting both against long-term back damage.” If the tree does not fit, no amount of alterations will help improve it, and you will end up with more problems than just a wobbly seat!
If a tree is too wide on a horse the pommel will sit too low, inhibiting movement at the withers, scapulae and shoulders and coming into contact with the skin, nerves, fascia, musculature and the Nuchal ligament. The horse will also have to tolerate the extra pressure on their forequarters created as the rider is tipped forwards in their seat. Tension will ensue through the Rhomboideus, Trapezius, Triceps Brachii, Pectorals and even the muscles of the foreleg, resulting in compensatory gaits and an uncomfortable ride.
Should the tree be too narrow, the panels either side of the gullet will pinch the withers and spine and exert excess pressure on the area beneath the points of the tree. Once again, muscles including the Trapezius will be affected, and a knock-on effect will be felt elsewhere in the horse’s musculoskeletal system and movement. Persistent contact with the withers, Nuchal ligament laminae and the tops of the thoracic vertebrae may become inflamed, leading to issues in the neck as well as the back. In addition, the pommel will sit too high, tipping the rider backwards and creating pressure along the Longissimus Dorsi and Thoracolumbar fascia. As we discussed last time, the transverse processes of the lumbar vertebrae are significantly broader than those of the thoracic portion of the spine and so if any great amount of pressure encroaches onto the lumbar region, there will more than likely be painful reactions to ridden work, and you will definitely notice a change in your horse’s behaviour!
Whilst a professional saddler can alter a traditional wooden tree, it is expensive and takes time. Nowadays, there is an abundance of saddles on the market with an interchangeable gullet plate system: this means that the width at the pommel can be altered quickly, cheaply and infinitely as the horse changes shape. I'll repeat, the tree MUST fit the horse when the saddle is first fitted for their new saddle, but the interchangeable gullet plates mean that you can alter the same saddle to correspond with your horse's changing body shape - an efficient and economical option.
Seat Length
Ideally, the saddle should not exceed the eighteenth thoracic vertebrae, after which the more vulnerable lumbar vertebrae may be exposed to unwanted pressure. The easiest way of locating T18 is by feeling for the rib closest to the tail and following its curve all the way up to the spine. This can be difficult on 'good-doers' and can take some practise, plus some horses may not appreciate it!
Taller riders will invariably require a longer seat, but on a short-backed horse this creates a dilemma: we've already discussed how the lumbar region behind the saddle can be adversely affected by any unwanted pressure, but by concentrating a rider's weight in a reduced area to avoid the lumbar spine you create greater pressure in one small area. Here, a professional saddle-fitter may exercise a degree of discretion, weighing up the options to reach a middle-of-the-road solution which both protects the horse's back and correctly supports the rider. Remember a saddle is shared by you both!
The Panels
One of the most common issues found in poorly fitting saddles is unbalanced panels: these lead to rider imbalance, resulting in compensatory posture and movements from both the rider as they try to sit correctly, and the horse as they attempt to balance an uneven weight. Both parties may experience subsequent physical asymmetries, most likely presented as back or hip pain in the rider, whilst the horse will most likely display uneven muscle development and compensatory gaits.
Too much flocking (traditionally wool, but modern examples include foam and even air) will make the panels unyielding and uncomfortable, but insufficient or uneven flocking will also decrease the cushioning effect needed to protect the horse from trauma. Furthermore, the saddle will not be sympathetic to the horse’s back and produce pressure points. These will cause inflammation, which can spread far from the original site of injury (we have discussed before the incredible interconnectivity of the whole equine system!), affecting muscles, fascia, skin and nerves. Consequences can be sores, galls and abrasions, with secondary infections likely to occur if left untreated. White hairs in areas such as the withers are normally symptomatic of scar tissue resulting from ill-fitting tack.
It is worth noting that a brand new saddle will need assessing fairly soon after purchase, even if you don't believe that your horse has changed shape: the flocking will have 'settled' over a short period of time, and as mentioned above this can lead to unwanted pressure points.
Muscle atrophy develops where pressure from a saddle interrupts circulation, which reduces the amount of oxygen and nutrients successfully entering an area. This can also happen where the horse attempts to avoid constant pressure by contracting the necessary muscles and altering their gait to avoid discomfort. These lead to secondary issues from compensatory movements and posture, once again (and I feel as though I am repeating myself a lot, here!) affecting the whole horse.
The Gullet
You should be able to see a clear passage all the way through the gullet over your horse’s spine, without the saddle ‘perching’ too high on the back. The gullet should be wide enough to allow room for the horse’s range of movement under saddle and to make allowance for the change in back dimensions during exercise. One study analysed how exercise induced changes in the back dimensions of 63 sports horses (Greve et al. 2015a) after 30mins of continuous exercise, mean back width was greater when compared with before. The authors concluded that back width changes were “significantly associated with saddle-fit” and that if a saddle does not fit as it should the back will not change shape, suggesting constriction and possible implications from discomfort. This strongly supports the idea that a horse’s back and its saddle form a symbiotic relationship and are influenced by one another.
What to look out for
Get acquainted with how your saddle should fit, preferably when your saddle-fitter is on hand, and try to get into the habit of assessing the fit at regular intervals. When tacking up or cleaning, keep an eye out for any damage or loose stitching. When assessing the fit of a saddle do not put any numnahs or pads beneath it, and if you have any misgivings you should consult a professional as soon as possible.
1: The Tree: You can assess the width of the tree by looking at the angle of the points in comparison with the angle of the body mass. The points of the tree should be angled so that they follow the shape of the horse's body - if they appear to be turning into the body the tree is too narrow; turning away and the tree is too wide.
2: The Panels: Look at your saddle from behind; if it sits to one side on your horse with no weight on it, chances are the panels have become uneven. Inconsistencies in the panels can be felt by placing the pommel on your feet with the seat facing your knees and running your hands down the panels either side of the gullet to feel for lumps or 'holes' in the flocking. You can also assess panel contact by placing the saddle on your horse and (putting slight pressure on the saddle with one hand) run your hand along and down the panels to check for any 'bridging', where there is inconsistent contact between the panels and your horse.
3: Wither clearance: Ideally there should be four fingers' widths between the underside of the pommel and your horse's withers, but bear in mind that this will reduce when you add the weight of a rider.
4: The Gullet: This should not sit on or too near either side of the spine - check that there is sufficient clearance at the sides of the withers and along the length of the spine. You should see sufficient daylight through the gullet when viewed from behind, again bearing in mind the weight of the rider is missing at this stage.
5: Balance: Ideally, the pommel and the cantle should be level with each other, with the seat nice and flat between. Where the cantle is designed to be higher than the pommel, pay greater attention to the levelness of the seat. To check balance, place one hand on the pommel and one on the cantle, then put pressure on each alternately. There should be minimal movement
Behavioural problems can be a result of discomfort or even pain caused by an ill-fitting saddle. These can include any of the following:
Rearing
Bucking
Head-tossing
Being 'backward' in their movement, i.e.
Refusal to jump
Refusal to make upwards transitions
Resistant to being saddled
Difficult to mount - 'cold-backed'
Of course, the above behaviours could be indicative of pain caused by a number of conditions, so it is always best to consult an expert for their opinion.
A brief note on numnahs and girths ...
And I am going to be brief here: there is the scope to write an entire book devoted to the effects of what we put under our saddles, not to mention the wide array of girths of every conceivable shape and substance, all boasting the latest features in technological advances!
The original purpose of saddle-cloths/numnahs/pads was simply to protect the saddle from dirt, grease and sweat. The panels are designed to protect the horse from pressure resulting from the weight of the rider (provided they are correct, of course). Over time, the humble saddle-cloth has developed into more of a buffer and support between horse and saddle; however, more padding does not necessarily mean more comfort. By filling the space between the saddle and the horse’s back with layers of cotton wadding or luxurious sheepskin, you can actually inhibit the horse's movement. Think of it this way: when you buy a pair of shoes in your size, you are generally wearing just one pair of normal, everyday socks; if you were to try wearing them with extra thick or multiple layers of socks not comfortable!
Fundamentally, if a saddle is fitted correctly there should be less need of extra padding, yet we all seem to have every kind of under-saddle accessory going. I am not vilifying anything here, I have used pretty much everything on H: on days where I am going to be in the saddle for a long time and she's going to be producing a lot of sweat, I use a "sheepskin" numnah, and thicker pads are a great temporary measure when she drops condition or when I notice there may be some pressure points developing, but they are just that - temporary measures, a short-term solution until my saddle-fitter can fit us in! Those horses with thin, sensitive skin (especially those who are having to be bathed more often) will often need something a bit more substantial between them and their saddles to prevent sores and rubbing. Whatever the reason you feel extra padding may be required, it should always be taken into consideration when your saddle is being fitted, so speak with your professional saddle-fitter.
So when should we have our saddles checked?
How long is a piece of string? It is very much down to the individual, I'm afraid, although having your saddle checked at least twice a year is recommended in order to assess (and if necessary to change) the supportive and cushioning material within your saddle. It all depends on how your horse changes shape throughout the year.
A study in 2015 observed changes in the back dimensions of 104 horses over a one-year period with measurements being taken at predetermined sites once every two months. They concluded that shape changes were positively influenced by (among other factors) saddle-fit (Greve et al. 2015b). Based on the results of this study, the authors suggested that saddle-fit should be evaluated several times a year to correspond with the frequency of changes to back shape. Survey data from the same study indicated that a third of UK riders have their saddles checked annually, however another found that “Many riders do not have a saddle-fit professionally assessed on at least an annual basis…” (Dyson et al. 2016).
For my final college project I monitored the changes in back dimensions and how these affected/were affected by the saddles of five working hunters in the period between hunting seasons. I concluded that those horses who had their saddles checked more frequently were less likely to suffer adverse effects than those who were only assessed once by the saddler. One horse in particular, 'Y', presented results which suggested that the remarkable disparity in mass which developed across his back had a massive impact on the way his saddle fitted; however, these disparities appear to have been symptomatic of poor saddle-fit in their turn - it was near impossible for the rider to be balanced correctly, which affected the way the horse moved, which affected the body shape beneath the saddle, which affected the way the saddle fitted... a real 'chicken and egg' paradox!
So the way a saddle fits can really influence our horses' body shapes, but other factors include:
Age: younger horses develop much quicker than their fully-grown counterparts, so these changes will need addressing more often to avoid damaging their juvenile musculoskeletal systems. Older horses tend to lose condition more easily, particularly when other changes are introduced (feed quality, dental problems, colder weather, etc.), and the way their saddles fit will be influenced by these.
Nutrition: there is more goodness in grass around spring and summer, plus the time your horse spends in the paddock will be longer during these months unless they are prone to laminitis! Come autumn and winter, they will be spending more time in their stables and feeding on hay/haylage, which have lower levels of sugar and starch.
Exercise: it seems pretty simple - more exercise will mean less fat! However, depending on the level and amount of exercise, mass formed by fat deposits will eventually develop into muscle mass; this may not simply mean a slimmer outline, just a very different shape.
Stress: any emotional or physical trauma can cause a loss of condition, eg: surgery, illness, isolation, extended periods of box-rest, etc.
The most important thing is that we recognise when changes in body shape happen, so that we are better prepared to predict when the saddle may need a professional assessment.
Key points to remember
Always have your saddle assessed and altered by a professional saddle fitter.
A saddle must suit both horse and rider.
Bear in mind that a young horse will change shape more rapidly as they develop, whilst an older horse is likely to drop condition more easily.
A brand new saddle will need assessing sooner after purchase, as the flocking will have 'settled' as you break the saddle in. This may mean that the panels are no longer as cushioned.
Try to think ahead: will your horse have time off in the year? Do they habitually change shape between seasons?
Keep an eye on any changes in their shape and try to get into the habit of assessing your saddle at regular intervals. If in doubt, call your saddle-fitter!
References
Greve, L. and Dyson, S. (2015a) A Longitudinal study of back dimension changes over one year in sports horses. Retrieved from ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/24372949
Greve, L. - Murray, R. and Dyson, S. (2015b) Subjective analysis of exercise-induced changes in back dimensions of the horse: The influence of saddle-fit, rider skill and work quality. Retrieved from ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/26238979
Dyson, S. and Greve, L. Saddles and girths: what is new? (2016) The Veterinary Journal. Retrieved from ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/m/pubmed/26598786/#
Eyres, J. (2020) From fit, to fat, to fit: Monitoring horses' back dimensions as they alter through post-season to pre-season training and assessing the relationship these changes have with the fit of the horses' saddles. Author's original work.
Schlees, J. (2018) Treeless v. treed: A saddle fitter's perspective. Retrieved from www.horsetalk.co.nz/2018/06/28/treeless-treed-saddle-fitter-persepctive/
Jess Eyres
J. Eyres Equine Physiotherapy
October 2020
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